Scissors And Cloth

Meticulously Handcrafted Shirts

Carlos Morin

The Tender Nob, San Francisco
losmorin@gmail.com
415.595.6325

I am a freelance menswear designer based in San Francisco, California. My schooling and training were acquired from the Art Institute in Dallas where I earned a degree in womenswear and from the Academy of Art in San Francisco, where I earned a second degree in menswear. Along the way, I have designed and constructed show gowns for drag queens, tailored suits and sportswear for the athletes of the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games and designed collections for a small start-up company.

But the best education I received was right here in my apartment creating shirt after shirt and jean after jean...relentlessly.

I believe in the drape technique but have faith in flat patterns.
I love a good pair of shears but loathe pins that bend.
I swear by the industrial iron just not the industry.
I believe in closures but not the invisible ones.
I have a fetish for good lighting and a good light when i'm done.
I love a good tailors chalk but hate when it breaks apart.
Sharp pencils good, dull pencils bad.

Most of all, I believe in the struggle.



Followers

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Daren, Phase II

Darens sample is coming along great. Aside from the common curve around the shoulder blade for a better fit, I'm going to relocate the shoulder line, as seen in the pics.

I'm also going to open up the neck hole and eighth of an inch on each side but somehow try and manage to keep the chest the same...not sure how that can happen.


Daren is very excited for this opportunity since his need for nicely fitted shirts has not been fulfilled. His enthusiasm is much appreciated so I really want to do a bang up job.

The next sample will include the typical changes with a sleeve added.






Wednesday, August 12, 2009

A sleeve, no cuff with a placket and multiple buttons. small. stylish. look for it.

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Antonio, Phase III





Antonio's sample is coming along great. I'm very happy about it. I'm going to move on to the final sample with the collars attached and both sleeves. I'm going to add a little more to the back where it meets the sleeve. I'll also add more room to the sleeve for better arm rotation...may be a little to fitted.

I'll be using Antonio for an upcoming photo shoot so I plan to devote a little more time to creating specific pieces. Gotta show range.

Stayed tuned...

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Josh, one happy customer.






Just a few pics of a previous shirt. Josh insisted that his shirt be made with this fabric.
Non-traditional fabrics with traditional silhouettes.

Monday, August 3, 2009

Darren, Phase I




Darren is by far the biggest guy I've had. He's an 18 inch neck with broad shoulders and has problems finding shirts that fit. Or maybe he just didn't like the old fashioned tailors at Macy's. But anyway, he's a good example of why I believe that a big neck doesn't necessarily mean an obese man. His body is rather unproportioned (did i use that word right),so his problems continue...over and over again.

What's interesting to me is that once his pattern is done, it won't look anything like a commercial pattern or any drawings from pattern books. It will be Darren's own shape, no straight lines or perfect curves. Add a little ease and boom, a nice custom, tailored shirt.

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Jared, Phase II

...so I'm loving this fit. Jared requests a super tailored and fitted look, so that's what he gets.




Only problem I forsee is the tension around the buttons once they're fastened...may pull and stress the fabric making it not so appealing. I'll probably have to do a sample with buttons and the original fit just to see what happens and then go from here.



If you look closer, you'll notice the fabric shaped around the collar bones which only emphasizes what this concept is about...the ability to create a garment super tailored ( i like the word "super") to the male form by draping the fabric to the actual body.

That shape will be hidden by the collar so I'm not too worried about the aesthetics of it.



As far as the sleeve, it was supposed to be short cause I wasn't sure if the lower half was wide enough so I chopped it off halfway, but turns out it's a hit. Jared wants to keep the length and do something crazy with a cuff

...also gonna play around with the sleeve cap and slice off any excess fabric, shouldn't be a problem...tune in later.

Antonio Phase II

Attached are todays pics of Antonio with the first front/back sample. I've created it without the sleeves to allow for mistakes and changes. This sample only requires few changes.



First, I need to ease up tension around the neckline...not sure how I'm going to approach that. I may need to drop the neck hole line while still keeping the original neck hole measurements. I think the tension is being created by the neck hole working its may up the neck, or possibly cause the fabric is muslin, a coarse and stiff fabric.



Second, I may lengthen the shoulder line out further so that there is more of a linear drop for the sleeve...may take it out quarter inch to a half. I'll debate that later.

Thirdly, and whats going to be interesting to see, is the end of where the back yoke meets the back block.



As you can see in the pics, this part has created an excess of fabric not needed. This is because the line between the yoke pattern and back pattern are straight.
However, Antonio's back across his mid shoulders is curved because of the natural shape of the body. This means I'll have to slice off extra fabric while blending in to the original line and developing a curved line to fall over those natural curves. This will create an even more fitted and clean look. The less fabric, the better.

I believe this line will change with every person I encounter, seeing how each persons body is different.

In the image of the line in question, you can see where it's pinned and folded over itself to demonstrate the desired appearance...a much better look than previously.



I'll make those necessary changes and include a sleeve and collar on the next fitting.

Overall, I am very satisfied with the direction this concept is taking.